Sw 38 Revolver Serial Numbers

Dating a Smith & Wesson Revolver: This list is merely a general guide and not meant to be exact. There is some dispute regarding the dates on some serial numbers. Your gun may actually be a year off from what is listed. The precise shipping date as 'lettered' can be several years off depending on model. Look up the pistol's full serial number - including all letters and numbers - in the back section of the 'Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson' book. These listings inform you of the pistol's date of manufacture, based on the serial number. S&W Revolver Serial# Lookup Curio and Relic (C&R) I am looking to tap into the vast knowledge on this site. I have a friend with a Smith and Wesson 5 shot revolver chambered in.32S&W Serial#: 398823 and he is looking for manufacture date on this firearm. The last Smith & Wesson Victory model revolver, serial number VS811119, was produced in August of 1945. When Smith & Wesson resumed commercial production of the Military & Police model in late 1945, as the war had been won and the letter “V” was dropped from the serial number prefix.

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The 'D' prefix indicates that it's a Model 10 (steel frame) or Model 12 (aluminum alloy frame). According to the Standard Catalog of S&W, the 610xxx serial number range is 1973-1974 production. The gun should have nickel finish, not stainless; the serial prefix is wrong for a stainless S&W revolver from this time period.
In the condition you describe, a nickel Model 10 would be worth $250-$325 with the relatively common 4' or 6' barrels, ~$25 more with the uncommon 5' barrel, and up to $100-$150 more with the rare 3' barrel which was only offered by special order in this era. The correct numbers-matching box, documents, and tool kit will add $50-$75 to the value.
A Model 12 will be worth ~$100 more than the Model 10 value. Since you say the gun is 'not snub nose', it should have a 4' barrel; M12 lengths other than 2' and 4' are rare to the point of near-nonexistence.
FWIW original factory nickel can be identified by color case finish on the hammer and trigger, blued finish on the ejector star and ejector rod, and natural metal on the cylinder pawls. Poorly-done refinishing can usually be identified by nickel plating in these areas; unfortunately, poorly-done renickeling jobs were common in the 70s and earlier. This will typically knock the gun's value down by ~30%.
Sw 38 Revolver Serial NumbersS&w

38 S&w Ctg Serial Numbers

Hello,
I hope this is the right forum, you have a ton of them. Just picked up a very cool S&W .38 -- it's a pre-model 10 (I guess it was called a military and police). Trying to figure out just how old it is. My guess is the 20s or 30s based on the serial number.
Here are some of the stamps on it:
Left on bbl reads:
38 Smith & Wesson special
US, Service CTG'S
top of bbl is typical S&W patent dates
S# on both Cyl and grip frame are 96580
Looks like original grips. just trying to find out more about it. I'm sure it's not real collectable give how common it is, but the age makes it pretty cool in my book. I was going to re-blue it, but decided the patina is just too nice, so I'm going to have a gunsmith check it out and toss some rounds with it (and yea, I know to not run +P stuff in it). I case you're curious I paid $100 for it.
Barrel has a tiny bulge in it that can only really be seen with looking through the barrel with a light. I've heard you can still find replacement vintage barrels if you search, not that the bulge will cause any firing issues, it's REALLY minor.
I have also heard these are not the right grips. how hard would it be to find the right ones and do the ones it currenty wear have any value?
I imagine I should find a good revolver smith in SoCal and him check it over. the cylinder latch sticks a bit, action feels good.
So any thoughts on it?